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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:06:31 GMT -5
This is a masterlist of creatures that can be found in Astoria. Some of which you will be able to befriend and tame, some of which you will be able to battle, and all of which are worthy of respect. This is currently a work in progress filling in some details.
MASTERLIST CockatriceCoeurl Dual Horn Ettin Snake Flan Gigantoad Golem Griffin Guard Hound Hedgehog Pie Hydra Iguion Malboro Marilith Mover Mu Orobon Rafflesia Tonberry Wyrm Zaghnol
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:17:34 GMT -5
ADAMANTOISE
ABOUT
Description Adamantoise are amongst the largest, and oldest creatures that can be found on Erta. The largest measured Adamantoise, known colloquially as the Avir Tortoise, is approximately four stories tall (56ft / 17m) and easily twice as wide measured from flipper to flipper. There are rumors, however, that this is not the largest in existence. Some say there’s one easily twice that size or more in the depths of Leveth Lake.
Adamantoise have an unknown lifespan, only that it’s upwards of three hundred years (see the Avir Tortoise) and that they seem to continue to grow the entire time.
When initially hatched, adamantoise tend to favor earthy, sandier colors that blend better with their surroundings. As they get older, however, they progressively gain a bluish tint and their hard shells begin to gather growths of mineral deposits similar to stalagmites you might find in caves.
Behavior in the Wild Adamantoise are calm, borderline docile creatures - so long as they are left alone. They are solitary by nature, the parents leaving their eggs buried deep in the sand where they will incubate for half a year.
Locations Adamantoise are found near water, with hatchlings burying in the sand and adolescents hiding in the shallows. Generally they’re easier to find on the ocean coast in areas free of heavy traffic that would scare them off.
HUNTING Abilities Above all, adamantoise have astonishing levels of stamina and health. Even adolescents can take hit after hit seemingly unaffected, and it takes a long time to rouse one to aggressiveness.
That said, an angry adamantoise is capable of creating shockwaves in proportion to how large it is, and is capable of slamming its body/parts into the unwary aggressor.
Do not get in the water with an agitated adamantoise. It will drown you.
Weaknesses
Adamantoise’s weaknesses depend almost entirely on circumstances. Smaller adamantoise, up to the size of a behemoth, can still move with surprising speed. Their horns will tear straight through all but the very best enchanted mythril armors, and their jaws, should you be so unlucky, could snap an arm in half - or, as they come in larger sizes, a whole person. However, they have limits; attacking from above, either in an airborne strike or daring to mount their shell, may prove highly effective. And if you can flip one over, it will not be getting back up before you could pierce its vulnerable underbelly.
Spoils of Battle
If you manage to take an adamantoise down, their meat is good for eating and their shells can be used for any number of crafting projects, though working with an older adamantoise’s shell is not unlike trying to work with stone.
HUSBANDRY
Adamantoise are impractical to be kept as pets and do not respond to taming. While they can be more or less befriended, they are not the sort of creature anyone will be taking home.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:23:54 GMT -5
AERONITE ABOUT Description Aeronites (sometimes known as Ironites) are a draconic beast that were once exclusively hunted for their extremely thick skin, covered in a fine layer of dusky rose colored scales. However, over time it became clear that despite the fact that most dragons do not lend to taming, aeronites that have been properly tamed or raised in captivity make not only excellent guards but fantastic mounts.
Aeronites stand on four feet, each with three thick, wickedly sharp main claws and an equally sharp dewclaw in the back. From floor to the arch of their back, the average adult aeronite is roughly 12ft (3.6m) tall and is easily 16ft (4.8m) from it’s toothy maw to the tip of its tail, with a wingspan anywhere from 30ft to 45ft (9.1m to 13.7m).
Behavior in the Wild Breeding and young aeronites travel in small packs of three or four, and if you should happen to see a youngling of less than five feet in length, you can be sure its mother and quite possibly it’s father are somewhere nearby.
Due to only having a single egg per nesting and being unwilling to nest again until they’ve raised their first hatchling safely to where it can take care of itself (approximately 10 years of age) the average aeronite female will only have four or five hatchlings in her lifetime. Adolescent aeronites strike out on their own at roughly 15 years of age.
Once aeronites have left their breeding years behind (60+ years of age) and finished raising the last of their hatchlings, they become solitary creatures. “Elder” aeronites are still in excellent health well past 120 years of age, but begin to be less tolerant of any other aeronites or dragons that are not kin.
Locations Aeronites are native to the Avir mountains, but regularly come down into the forested foothill areas to hunt for game.
HUNTING
Abilities
Aeronites are not simply fire breathers, like many more traditional dragons, but are capable of powerful lightning and ice spells as well as the ability to cast Sleep - an especially dangerous situation to be in, as they are as likely to stay and finish off their foe as they are to leave the area, depending entirely on temperament.
(In the fighting minigame, aeronites are a Tier A fight worth 100 EXP)
Weaknesses
Due to their ability to stay airborne and launch magic attacks, only ranged attacks even have a chance to strike. Things that force them to fight on the ground are especially effective.
Spoils of Battle
For having taken down an aeronite, you can harvest its thick hide, and will usually be able to get several of its claws. The especially ambitious may be able to extract one or two whole teeth if they came equipped for such a task.
(In the fighting minigame, you are allowed the skin, as well as a claw and tooth)
HUSBANDRY
Tracking & Taming
Keeping an aeronite as a guard and/or mount is a deep investment due to how long it takes to breed and raise them. That said, a well socialized, well trained aeronite can be quite tame to the people it claims as its own.
It’s advised to start young, the younger the better, even if it’s more work early on it will save you a great deal of work later. Hatchling and adolescent aeronites before the age of ten are much more accepting of handling and raising, and bond more quickly to their owners. Additionally, adult aeronites are one of the most difficult monsters to catch.
Care & Keeping
Keeping an aeronite as a guard and/or mount is an expensive endeavor, costly in both the space needed to keep them and the amount of raw meat it takes to feed them. Not all cities have pens for aeronites, though a well trained adult may be able to be trusted to mind itself outside while waiting for its rider.
Harvesting Items
There are no regularly harvestable items from a tamed aeronite.
Breeding in Captivity
Aeronites rarely breed successfully in captivity, even with a mated pair.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:43:39 GMT -5
AXOLOTL
ABOUT Description
These pink aquatic creatures are amongst the smaller and more abundant monsters in the bestiary. Roughly 10in (25.4cm) tall and weighing 20lbs (9kg), no amount of what would normally be “over” fishing seems to make a dent in their abundant wild population, and they are very easy to breed for companionship or ranching uses.
Axolotls possess three long fins on either side of their face that are nearly as long as their rather short bodies, not counting the tail. Each fin possesses hundreds of tiny, filament-like fleshy extensions that form a fringe around them, a feature also shared by the tail. These fringe bits are regenerative, and will regrow even if cut. The rest of the body is smooth and lean, down to wide flat feet with sharp black claws.
Most axolotl will live to 15 years, though there have been some that make it to 20 years.
Behavior in the Wild
Axolotls can be found in large families of easily a couple dozen in the wild, often with a few mating pairs and their offspring in a group called a ‘band’. Curious creatures by nature, they vary in temperament from shy and skittish around larger or unfamiliar creatures to bold and even playful.
Locations
These amphibious creatures are found in muddy shallows in and the land around bodies of water, but are generally freshwater creatures. At most, they will tolerate brackish water with somewhat higher salinity.
HUNTING Abilities
Axolotls are not particularly impressive opponents. They are capable of very minor water attacks, but only present even a vague menace as a group.
(In the fighting minigame, axolotls are a Tier E fight worth 20 EXP)
Weaknesses
As is the case with all water-elemental enemies, axolotls are especially weak to lightning attacks.
Spoils of Battle
After killing an axolotl, you can harvest it’s small skin. Such a lean creature doesn’t have much else worth scavenging, but you can gather its eyes and gills as well.
(In the fighting minigame, you are allowed the skin, one eye, and one gill)
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
For every shy axolotl that goes skittering away from your grasp, there’s one that will walk right up to you; they’re easy to catch on the whole, and take to taming exceptionally well.
Care & Keeping
Axolotls are extremely low maintenance, and can be kept with as little as a pond with a muddy bottom and plenty of bugs to eat.
Harvesting Items
Captive axolotls are more often bred for their hides, but claw clippings can still be gathered from living ones.
(In the gathering parts minigame, you can gather a claw clipping)
Breeding in Captivity
Axolotls are prolific breeders, and even in captivity can have litters of up to four at a time.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:50:55 GMT -5
BEHEMOTH ABOUT Description
The average behemoth tends to make one think vaguely of some sort of exceptionally large canid, standing at 12’0ft (3.6m) at the highest point on their back and weighing roughly 3000lbs (1.5T). Its wickedly sharp black horns, 6in (15cm) in diameter at their widest, are easily 4’0-5’0 (1.2m-1.5m) long, in counterbalance to its tail which is usually another two feet longer still. A behemoth’s tail is often used as a club on land, in no small part due to the long spikes around the fin. In the water, it is used as a rudder to help it move easier through the water. All four paws possess long, razor-edged claws, and its sharp teeth are no small threat either.
Behemoth pelts are highly prized and the fur is usually midnight blue to purple in color while their mane is a vibrant crimson. Their eyes are a surprisingly bright orangy color.
Behavior in the Wild
Behemoths can be seen traveling in small packs, usually no more than six - a breeding pair and four pups, or any combination of roaming, unpaired females that have grouped together. Unpaired males tend to roam alone, and have fierce territorial behavior that only settles once they’ve found a lifemate.
Regular behemoths are excellent swimmers and spend a great deal of time in and around the water hunting for food, exercising, and escaping the heat.
Locations
Most behemoths prefer to live around bodies of water, with no preference for fresh, brackish, or salt water so long as there is suitable depth and a sufficient food supply. They are surprisingly good at diving and by adulthood master the art of using their massive horns to spear food.
HUNTING Abilities
Behemoths are capable of fire elemental attacks up to a Firaga (Tier 3) depending on their age and strength.
(In the fighting minigame, behemoths are a Tier B fight worth 80 EXP)
Weaknesses
Behemoths only have resistance to fire attacks, so most other elements are fair game even though it doesn’t have an explicit weakness. Obviously, should you catch one in the water it is advisable to switch to lightning.
Spoils of Battle
Most commonly, a behemoth is killed because it is a threat. However, they are also hunted for very useful parts. It’s large hide, skull, horns, teeth, and even its heart can all be used as key crafting ingredients.
(In the fighting minigame, you are allowed the hide, skull, heart and one horn and one tooth)
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
While not the easiest of catches, a behemoth is not untamable and is still easier than the likes of aeronites. There are no special methods required, though it's important to remember that it is entirely possible the behemoth will become hostile and turn your efforts into a fight - and it is one of the harder monster fights out there.
Properly trained behemoths can be quite sociable and make excellent mounts. Despite their penchant for swimming in the wild, however, they should not be counted on to cross any deep water.
Care & Keeping
A behemoth requires a great deal of food - dominantly meat proteins, though they are omnivorous and can have a diet partially supplemented with greens and still be kept healthy.
In the short term, housing behemoths in pens works well, but ultimately they need time to roam and run to be kept happy. This can be worked around by using them as mounts that see a lot of travel time, but for the most part it’s more advisable to just find some grounds to let them loose on. If you have not fed them beforehand, however, be aware that even a “fully domesticated” behemoth raised since it was a pup may hunt to fill both its belly and more primal hunting urges.
A well cared for behemoth can outlive the average 20 years a wild behemoth lives and go on to live up to 30 years old. Behemoths are considered adults capable of breeding and being used as mounts by three years of age.
Harvesting Items
A tamed behemoth presents opportunity to gather hair from its mane, and to collect shed or clipped claws.
(In the gathering parts minigame, you can gather a hair or horn clipping)
Breeding in Captivity
In captivity, there have been no instances of more than one pup per breeding. There is, however, a 5% chance that two regular behemoths will birth a miniature. (Miniatures are not breedable with regular behemoths.) |
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 12:56:08 GMT -5
KING BEHEMOTH ABOUT Description
King Behemoths are the largest predators on Erta, exponentially bigger than their “regular” counterparts. A King Behemoth stands at 92’0 ft (28m) tall - even taller than the legendary Avir Tortoise - and weighs in at a staggering 42,000 lbs (19 t). While they possess a similar build to a regular behemoth, their coloring is in shades of gray, silver, and sometimes a dusty yellow or dirty red.
King Behemoths possess two sets of horns, the straighter ones that grow from their temples and curve down towards their end points that are well over 10’0 ft (3m) long, and the even bigger ones growing out of the sides of their skulls that grow in a set of almost wavy curves and grow several feet longer still. Other bony growths can be seen from its exceptionally large canines, massive claws, and long spikes on the club of its tail.
As if this were not enough to make this legendary beast dangerous, they also possess truly massive wings capable of taking them to flight despite their incredible weight. The span is roughly 100’0 ft (30m), and occasionally larger.
Behavior in the Wild
King Behemoths seek solitude and are rarely seen anywhere near civilization. Despite the assumption that surely they must breed to exist, there have never been more than one spotted at a time. They don’t seem to think much of smaller creatures, though once one initiates hostile behavior they will retaliate - usually to the ending of the other creature’s life, be it man or beast.
Locations
The last time a King Behemoth was spotted, it was roaming around the Forged Keep area, up in the mountains.
HUNTING Abilities
On a physical scale alone, the King Behemoth is a mighty foe with its club-like tail, shredding claws and teeth, and ability to dive bomb from the air should it tire of combat on the ground. Beyond that, however, it has been reported as also capable of high level fire, lightning, and ice magic.
Weaknesses
If you’re crazy enough to go up against this legendary beast, the first thing you’ll want to do is be sure you’re ready with some serious firepower of the lightning persuasion to knock it out of the air. From there, remain at a distance because one swipe of its tail will be leading to dented armor and cracked ribs at best. It has no specific weaknesses, but at least has no specific resistances either.
Spoils of Battle
The prize trophies after having taken down a King Behemoth would undoubtedly be its four massive horns, its elongated canines, razor sharp claws, enormous pelt, and assorted offal. You might also fetch fair price for its skull / bones, mane and wings.
HUSBANDRY King Behemoths cannot be tamed, nor is there enough room to keep one even if you managed to domesticate it.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 13:12:40 GMT -5
BEHEMOTH MINIATURE ABOUT Description
As suggested by their name, miniature behemoths are a mere fraction of the size of their full sized counterparts. Standing roughly 3’0 ft (0.9m) at the shoulder and weighing approximately 500 lbs (226.7kg), these are still by no means small creatures - merely much smaller than normal. The average miniature behemoth is a good 7’0 ft (2.1m) from snout to rear, with an additional 2’6 ft (0.79m) of tail.
There are more mutations than simply their size, however. Miniature behemoths do not have the tail spines and are usually of lighter coloring, from a dark blue to a brighter purple, with red manes that go all the way to the base of their tails. They are still highly muscular, possessing thick, sharp claws and teeth, as well as two short horns, roughly 1’0 ft (0.3m) each.
Behavior in the Wild
Miniature behemoths are rarely found in the wild because they so rarely survive, unable to compete with their full sized counterparts and also unable to breed with them. Odds are good that if you happen to locate a mini, it will either be very young or very sickly.
Locations
There is a 5% chance in any behemoth breeding to produce a miniature, so it isn’t unheard of to find them in the wild, so much as they usually die before they’ve made it to adulthood. They don’t like to swim the same way that their bigger family members do, however, so it’s more likely to find them attempting to survive in surrounding areas.
HUNTING Abilities
Though perfectly capable of goring someone with its horns or tearing someone limb from limb, miniature behemoths possess considerably less fire power in the very literal sense. At best, a miniature will be able to cast a tier one fire spell. They are not capable of any other elemental attacks.
Weaknesses
As one might guess, the smaller size means lesser strength. Not only are they incapable of high level magic, but they are easier to take down by far. (Note, again, they are far from helpless. An enraged, hostile, or otherwise pressured miniature behemoth is still a behemoth and capable of crushing an adult’s skull with nothing but jaw pressure.)
Spoils of Battle
A miniature behemoth can provide the same sorts of spoils as its full grown brethren: the heart is highly prized, as are the teeth, skull, horns, and hide.
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
The best bet for finding a miniature behemoth in the wild is stalking out nests and attempting to take the newborn pup. That said, this is an extremely dangerous task that may necessitate killing or capturing the rest of the pack. If you really want one, it’s better to breed one or get one from a breeder.
Care & Keeping
Miniature behemoths take up considerably less space than their regular counterparts, but still need to have room to run regularly. While they can be tamed to be as docile and friendly as the fully grown ones, they do not possess the build to be a proper mount for most species. (There are exceptions.)
A behemoth is a behemoth, no matter the size; if it is not fed - and sometimes, even when it is - it will hunt, and is quiet likely to do so successfully. Their diet remains the same “mostly carnivorous with periodic greens supplements.”
The mutation that leads to the shrinking of a miniature behemoth in size does not shrink its lifespan. A properly cared for miniature will live easily for 30 years and can start breeding by its third year.
Harvesting Items
A tamed miniature presents the same opportunity to gather hair from its mane, and to collect shed or clipped claws.
Breeding in Captivity
Miniature behemoths cannot be bred with regular behemoths, and instead must breed with another miniature. There is a 5% chance of a breeding pair of miniatures giving birth to a regular sized pup. Regardless of size, they only have single pups in captivity.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 13:17:18 GMT -5
BITE BUG ABOUT Description
Bite bugs are, for insects, impressively large creatures as big as a human adult’s hand. Their pincers alone are easily a good 4 - 6 in (10-15cm) long, and have two rows of small, needle sharp teeth. They fly on beetle-styled wings, with sets of hard outer wings and softer inner wings beating in tandem to keep it aloft. Six long limbs still aren’t long enough for it to properly walk with such a long mouth. It’s body comes in shades of blue-green, except for a sharp, single stinger.
Barring an early death, bite bugs will live for roughly one year.
Behavior in the Wild
Bite bugs travel in swarms, a bare minimum of 10-12 can be seen in an area at any given time. They are not exceptionally intelligent creatures, however, so there’s seldom coordinated attacks even should one turn hostile. They can, however, often be shooed from an area without it coming down to combat.
Locations
These creatures are highly adaptable and can be found all over Astoria.
HUNTING Abilities
Physically, bite bugs are very weak enemies and very easy to take down even for relatively inexperienced combatants. However, it is worth noting they are capable of temporarily blinding opponents.
(In the fighting minigame, bite bugs are a Tier E fight worth 20 EXP)
Weaknesses
Bite bugs have a distinct weakness both to ice and lightning, but aren’t particularly strong to begin with and can be taken down with very basic strikes even without invoking magic.
Spoils of Battle
Harvesting with great care will yield antennae, the carapace, pincer, and wings.
(In the fighting minigame, you are allowed the carapace, pincer, an antennae and a wing)
HUSBANDRY Bite bugs have neither the intelligence nor disposition to be tamed.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 13:53:17 GMT -5
BOMB ABOUT Description
There are multiple theories on the existence of bombs and how they are “birthed” - or whether they qualify as birthed or created. It seems most likely, however, that they spawn from magical fire in such situations as someone having used a powerful fire spell and the magic lingering in the area.
These spherical balls of sentient fire are usually between 2-3 ft (0.6-0.9 m) by the time someone discovers them, though they’ve been reported to come smaller when first formed.
Behavior in the Wild
Bombs seek out heat and are drawn to areas of bright sunlight and sources of fire.
Locations
Bombs are usually seen around fires - wildfires, or somewhere where someone has recently used a high tier fire spell.
HUNTING Abilities
Depending on its age and experience, a bomb may be capable of varying levels of fire attacks, but even newly formed bombs are capable of Tier 1 fire spells. They also give off noxious fumes, smoke, and are capable of self-destructing as a last ditch attack when their HP is low.
Weaknesses
Regular bombs are weak to all water attacks and some earth.
Spoils of Battle
Nothing can be salvaged from the destruction of a bomb.
HUSBANDRY No type of bomb can be tamed and kept in captivity.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 14:21:03 GMT -5
THUNDER BOMB  ABOUTDescription
There are multiple theories on the existence of bombs and how they are “birthed” - or whether they qualify as birthed or created. It seems most likely, however, that they spawn from lightning in such situations as someone having used a powerful lightning spell and the magic lingering in the area, or a powerful lightning strike.
These spherical balls of crackling power are usually between 2-3 ft (0.6-0.9 m) by the time someone discovers them, though they’ve been reported to come smaller when first formed.
Behavior in the Wild
Thunder bombs seek out charged areas, either where a lightning spell has been used or a lightning strike.
Locations
Thunder bombs show up around areas that have been hit by lightning, or where powerful lightning magic has been used.
HUNTING Abilities
Depending on its age and experience, a thunder bomb may be capable of varying levels of lightning attacks, but even newly formed bombs are capable of Tier 1 lightning spells. They also give off noxious fumes, smoke, and are capable of self-destructing as a last ditch attack when their HP is low.
Weaknesses
Thunder bombs are weak to earth attacks.
Spoils of Battle
Nothing can be salvaged from the destruction of a bomb.
HUSBANDRY
No type of bomb can be tamed and kept in captivity.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 15:51:13 GMT -5
ICE BOMB ABOUT Description
There are multiple theories on the existence of bombs and how they are “birthed” - or whether they qualify as birthed or created. It seems most likely, however, that they spawn from ice in such situations as someone having used a powerful ice spell and the magic lingering in the area, or from the bitter cold of winter.
These spherical balls of crackling power are usually between 2-3 ft (0.6-0.9 m) by the time someone discovers them, though they’ve been reported to come smaller when first formed.
Behavior in the Wild
Ice bombs will seek the coldest nearby place, often frozen bodies of water.
Locations
Ice bombs mostly show up in the winter time, usually in uninhabited areas.
HUNTING Abilities
Depending on its age and experience, a bomb may be capable of varying levels of ice attacks, but even newly formed bombs are capable of Tier 1 ice spells. They also give off toxic, low temperature gas, and are capable of self-destructing as a last ditch attack when their HP is low.
Weaknesses
Ice bombs are weak to fire attacks.
Spoils of Battle
Nothing can be salvaged from the destruction of a bomb.
Husbandry
No type of bomb can be tamed and kept in captivity.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 18, 2021 18:50:39 GMT -5
CACTAUR ABOUT Description
Cactaurs range wildly in size even before considering their cactite cousins. They can be anywhere from 6 in (15 cm) to roughly 3 ft (0.9m) depending on age and breed. They appear to be sentient cacti, with two arms and two legs as well as dark eyes and an elongated mouth.
As reclusive as they are, they’re not often studied in the wild and their lifespan is uncertain, but unlikely to be more than five years.
Behavior in the Wild
Cactaurs are generally reclusive in the wild, avoiding civilization. While some are of a temperament to be willing to be tamed, most would be of a mind to put up a fight.
Locations
Cactaurs are said to be prolific in desert areas, but are also abundant in the lower Avir foothills.
HUNTING Abilities
Cactaurs are not inherently difficult enemies, possessing a single attack that yes, can be dangerous but has questionable accuracy at its strongest and only at its weakest is reliably aimed.
(In the fighting minigame, cactuars are a Tier D fight worth 40 EXP)
Weaknesses
Due to their plant biology, cactaurs are vulnerable to fire magic and ice magic.
Spoils of Battle
The needles that were used in attacks can be collected and cleaned to be used in crafting or powdered down for dye.
(In the fighting minigame, you collect a needle)
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
Cactaur are more commonly found in the mountain foothills, but there’s been more than a few seen around Dindue Village, which suggests that there was a breeding pair that came inland. Whether you will be attacked or not in your effort depends largely on the cactaur’s personality and is therefore a roulette.
Care & Keeping
Because of their size, the only real concern with keeping cactaur is that you have to be very careful with the levels of sunlight (significant), water levels (low), and keeping them in a dry environment.
Harvesting Items
Periodically tamed cactaurs shed the needles on their head, which can be gathered and used for crafting.
(In the gathering parts minigame, you can gather a needle)
Breeding in Captivity
There are no records of cactaur being successfully bred in captivity |
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 19, 2021 11:55:32 GMT -5
CACTITE ABOUT Description
Cactite are a smaller variant of cactaur, ranging from 4 in (10 cm) to 1.5 ft (0.45 m) depending on age. They appear to be sentient cacti, with two long arms and two short legs as well as large white eyes and a wide mouth. They have more needles lining their bodies than most cactaurs, and their bodies are short and thick - almost round.
As reclusive as they are, they’re not often studied in the wild and their lifespan is uncertain, but unlikely to be more than five years.
Behavior in the Wild
Cactite are incredibly shy creatures, and also extremely fast - a combination that lends to them being rarely seen and never caught.
Locations
Like cactaurs, cactite are said to be prolific in desert areas, but are also abundant in the lower Avir foothills.
HUNTING Abilities
Cactites are capable of needle attacks, and unlike their cactaur cousins do happen to be mildly poisonous - depending, of course, on how many needles you have in you.
Weaknesses
Due to their plant-like makeup, cactite are vulnerable to fire magic and ice magic.
Spoils of Battle
If you have the proper training, it’s possible to harvest some needles from a felled cactite.
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
Cactite are far too fast for the average hunter to track them, so if you’re going to catch a cactite you’ll have to wait until a nest is located or some are ill or injured and easier to catch up with.
Care & Keeping
Because of their size, the only real concern with keeping a cactite is that you have to be very careful with the levels of sunlight (high), water levels (low), and keeping them in a very dry environment.
Harvesting Items
It’s best for a cactite not to have anything harvested, though at times a needle may come loose - but be careful of its poison.
Breeding in Captivity
There are no records of successfully breeding a cactite in captivity.
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 19, 2021 12:03:21 GMT -5
YELLOW CHOCOBO ABOUT Description
“Yellow” chocobo, thus named for their yellow plumage, are the most common type of chocobo. At times, the color can be omitted because if you only say “chocobo” it is assumed you mean the most common breed. They are also known as “field chocobo” because they are incapable of crossing water any deeper than wading level or climbing mountainous terrain and can only really be used to travel through the fields and forests where they are found. - Of great interest to breeders, there are wild variants of “yellow” chocobos that come in shades of orange and red (known as “sunrise” and “sunset” respectively). These chocobos are functionally the same as all yellow chocobos and only differ in coloring. However, both orange and red are extremely rare variants and seldom breed true. It is easier to catch an orange or red than to breed one in captivity.
Adults of both sexes are roughly 9’0ft tall (2.7m) from claw to crest and can weigh in around 320lbs (145kg).
Hatchling chocobos, known as chicabos, are 10in (25.4cm) tall when they emerge from the egg and weigh roughly 2lbs (0.9kg). They continue gaining height rapidly (another 10in / 25.4cm per month) until reaching their adult height.
Behavior in the Wild
Despite being able to convert to a flock in domestic situations, chocobos are mostly solitary birds in the wild. Hens (females) will find a suitable mate out of the available roaming bull chocobos (male, also known as cocks) to settle and have a hatchling with.
Unlike most avians who have a clutch of several eggs at a time, a chocobo hen will produce one egg per hatching, and have no more than one nesting every four months.
Locations
Chocobos can theoretically be found all over the countryside, so long as the area is largely flat terrain. Most of them shy away from civilization, so it’s easier to find them in outlying territories.
HUNTING
Abilities
The field chocobo is the least accomplished of its line, and yet is still a remarkable bird. Capable of carrying up to twice its body weight and running an average of 45 mph (72 km/h) with sprinting periods of 60 mph (96.6 km/h) as an adult, it is obvious why the humble yellow chocobo remains the mount of choice.
Chocobo are extremely intelligent birds, and while incapable of regular speech due to the structure of their vocal chords and beaks, they have been proven time and again to understand the languages they are exposed to.
Weaknesses
Despite being an avian with wings, field chocobo are ground bound and thus weak to Earth element attacks. They do not have a specific weakness that has special effectiveness against them in battle.
Spoils of Battle
While a chocobo is of far more worth alive, should one happen to perish you can gather meat, feathers, and down from its carcass for reuse so long as it was not poisoned or mangled in the process.
HUSBANDRY
Tracking & Taming
All but the best and luckiest of trainers should stick to taming a chocobo that they’ve found in the grasslands. While yes, it gives them more room to run, chocobos found grazing are often calmer and the same room to run makes them a little more willing to interact. The usual monster treat will not satisfy here, however, and it is advised instead to lure them with gysahl greens.
There is a chance, even armed with gysahl greens, that the chocobo will go running but the odds are better that they will allow themselves to be tamed or even just stand and watch.
Care & Keeping
Due to their size, chocobo are kept in stable stalls. Specialized chocobo stables can be found in nearly every settlement and are open for rent. Many inns also include small stables for their patrons that can be included in the arrangement of room and board.
Harvesting Items
When grooming adult chocobos, both flight feathers and the smaller bits of down can be gathered to be used for the stuffing in pillows, winter coats, etc. or in other crafts.
(In the gathering parts minigame, you can gather a feather)
Breeding in Captivity
Chocobo hens of all kinds lay white to cream colored eggs that are roughly six inches tall and weigh up to three pounds, one at a time. Yellow chocobo will always breed true unless very specific circumstances are met.
A diet of sylkis greens is advised to promote mating in captivity. If the chocobos are of appropriate age and fitness (as can be gauged by their racing rating) the addition of a zeio nut fed to the hen before a breeding attempt will lead to the birth of either a blue or green chicabo with a 50% chance of either. Other combinations are:
Yellow + Yellow (below Tier 3 or without a zeio nut) = Yellow, takes on the lowest parent rank Yellow + Blue = 75% chance Yellow, 25% chance Blue, takes on the lowest parent rank Yellow + Green = 75% chance Yellow, 25% chance Green, takes on the lowest parent rank Yellow + (below Tier 5) Black = 75% chance Yellow, 25% chance Black, takes on the lowest parent rank
Tier 5 Yellow + Tier 5 Black = 40% chance Yellow, 35% Black, 25% Gold
Yellow + Gold = 75% Yellow, 25% Gold, takes on the lowest parent rank
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Post by Crystal Legends on Oct 19, 2021 12:57:07 GMT -5
BLUE CHOCOBO ABOUT Description
“Blue” chocobo, named for their plumage just like other types of chocobo, are the direct result of breeding two third-tier yellow chocobos under very specific circumstances that really only occur within captivity. They are also known as “river chocobo” as they are capable of crossing shallower waters. As a rule of thumb, if it is still shallow enough for light to penetrate through to the bottom, it is shallow enough for a river chocobo to cross - which includes some shallower bays, inlets and ocean shores.
- They are not capable of climbing mountainous terrain.
All chocobos regardless of color have the same stature: adults of both sexes are roughly 9’0ft tall (2.7m) from claw to crest and can weigh in around 320lbs (145kg).
Hatchling chocobos, known as chicabos, are 10in (25.4cm) tall when they emerge from the egg and weigh roughly 2lbs (0.9kg). They continue gaining height rapidly (another 10in / 25.4cm per month) until reaching their adult height.
Behavior in the Wild
Blue chocobo are not a natural occurrence in the wild, and are a result of deliberate breeding in captivity. However, in the few cases of blue chocobo that have been abandoned or otherwise gotten lost they will instinctively seek out the nearest body of water.
Locations
Blue chocobo are not naturally found in the wild. Blue chocobo that have been lost/run away/etc will seek out bodies of water.
HUNTING Abilities
Blue chocobo are capable of traveling over “shallow” water and maintain all the abilities of their yellow forefathers. They are capable of carrying up to twice their body weight and running an average of 45 mph (72 km/h) with sprinting periods of 60 mph (96.6 km/h) as an adult. It is less common than yellow chocobos, but roughly ties with greens.
All chocobo are extremely intelligent, and while incapable of regular speech due to the structure of their vocal chords and beaks, they have been proven time and again to understand the languages they are exposed to.
Weaknesses
Blue chocobo do not have inherent, specific weaknesses. However, as with all species, when it happens to be standing in water it is more vulnerable to lightning attacks.
Spoils of Battle
While a chocobo is of far more worth alive, should one happen to perish you can gather meat, feathers, and down from its carcass for reuse so long as it was not poisoned or mangled in the process.
HUSBANDRY Tracking & Taming
Blue chocobo are not found naturally in the wild, but special care must be taken in retrieving one that is because by nature it would have been bred in captivity and thereafter gone feral. Gysahl greens are still required as a lure, as is much patience.
Care & Keeping
Due to their size, chocobo are kept in stable stalls. Specialized chocobo stables can be found in nearly every settlement and are open for rent. Many inns also include small stables for their patrons that can be included in the arrangement of room and board.
Harvesting Items
When grooming adult chocobos, both flight feathers and the smaller bits of down can be gathered to be used for the stuffing in pillows, winter coats, etc. or in other crafts.
(In the gathering parts minigame, you can gather a feather)
Breeding in Captivity
Chocobo hens of all kinds lay white to cream colored eggs that are roughly six inches tall and weigh up to three pounds, one at a time. A diet of sylkis greens is advised to promote mating in captivity. Breeding a tier four blue chocobo and a tier four green chocobo together will guarantee the hatching of a tier four black chicabo.
Other combinations are:
Blue + Yellow = 75% chance Yellow, 25% chance Blue, takes on the lowest parent rank
Blue + Green (either below Tier 4) = 50% Blue, 50% Green, takes on the lowest parent rank Blue + (below Tier 5) Black = 75% chance Blue, 25% chance Black, takes on the lowest parent rank Tier 5 Blue + Tier 5 Black = 40% chance Blue, 35% Black, 25% Gold Blue + Gold = 75% Blue, 25% Gold, takes on the lowest parent rank
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